The
Friendly Whales of Baja, Mexico
March 20 to 27, 2009
How
to Book
Contact 'Wild and Free' by
Email and the course leader will contact you.
THE BAJA PENINSULA
Baja
(pronounced "Baa-haa") is a place like no other: it is one of
the few places in the world to see the enormous Blue Whale - the largest
animal ever to have lived on earth - and is also the New Year home to
the friendly Grey Whales after their long migration down from Arctic waters.
Over the last three decades the Grey Whales have rebounded from the terrible
effects of whaling, and they continue to visit a few of the sheltered
lagoons on the Baja Peninsula to mate, give birth, and spend some time
with the visiting people! But this is no ordinary whale-watch trip, for
this is the only place in the world where the local whales regularly approach
the small boats and invite their delighted audience to touch, hug and
even kiss! Nowhere else does a whale encounter get this close...
The
Baja Peninsula is a long strip of desert landscape, mountainous and unspoiled,
that stretches more than 1500km from Tijuana - next to San Diego on the
US border - down to San Jose del Cabo in the extreme south. Although easy
to get to, with regular flights to several of the major towns along the
Peninsula, it remains one of the country's least explored areas and in
most of the peninsula life carries on as it has for many centuries, unaffected
by the mass tourism that has impacted other areas of Mexico.
The climate
is pleasant year-round - both dry and warm - and sea conditions on the
Sea of Cortez (eastern side) of the Peninsula are usually very calm because
of the sheltered location. On the Pacific (western side), the whales are
to be found in sheltered lagoons - they go there to give birth because
of the warm, shallow and calm waters - and this makes boat trips in the
area very comfortable.
BAJA'S
DOLPHINS AND WHALES
On
both sides of the Baja Peninsula - in the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific
Ocean - many dolphins make their home and are regularly spotted on whale-watch
trips. Like dolphins everywhere, they are curious of boats and will often
swim over to take a closer look at the vessel and all those aboard. Both
the Bottlenose Dolphin and the Long-beaked Common Dolphin are frequently
encountered in the region, and the calm waters makes for superb viewing
and wonderful dolphin photographs.
Each year
several thousand Grey Whales swim down the western coast of North America
in what amounts to the longest migration of any mammal, anywhere - a 12,000
km roundtrip! They congregate in the Baja's sheltered lagoons to mate,
play, give birth and rest. It is here, in bays that were once the scene
of terrible atrocities committed by early Whalers, that an astonishing
relationship has emerged over the last thirty years between the whales
and the visitors that venture out to meet them in small boats.
While the
'Friendles', as they are called, are famous throughout the Baja Peninsula,
word has not spread too widely about another astonishing visitor to the
region. At the same time that the Greys are birthing and mating in the
lagoons on the Pacific coast, the mighty Blue Whales congregate in the
tranquil waters of the Sea of Cortez between the Peninsula and the Mexican
mainland. There are few places in the world where it's possible to reliably
see these enormous whales - bigger than anything else that has ever lived
- and to witness one close up is a humbling and impressive experience.
The calm waters ensure perfect viewing conditions, and the small boats
allow for some first-rate viewing encounters with these gentle giants.
With their hearts as big as VW Beetle cars, you can't fail to be moved
by the experience. If that weren't enough, there's also a high chance
of seeing Fin Whales, the second-largest whales on earth, in these waters!
TRIP
DATES
Dates
for the 2009 trip run from Friday March 20 to 27. The trip begins and
ends in Loreto, a small town about two-thirds down the Peninsula that
is serviced by regular flights from a number of US cities, including Los
Angeles, Phoenix, San Francisco and San Diego. You may choose to arrive
a day or two before the trip begins, or stay for a few days afterwards,
to enjoy the many attractions of the town and its surroundings.
TRIP
HIGHLIGHTS
This
is a unique trip, as it combines the opportunity to see the playful dolphins
and mighty Blue Whales of the Sea of Cortez with the unique hands-on experience
of the Grey Whales on the Pacific side. The short journey between the
two coastlines is stunningly beautiful, and will give you a taste of the
dramatic desert landscape - mountainous and strewn with enormous cacti
- that really makes the Baja Peninsula feel like another world!
Here's an
excerpt from Jason's upcoming book about his first experience visiting
the friendly Grey Whales of the region:
"My first time visiting one of these extraordinarily beautiful lagoons
along the Baja Peninsula was a windless, sunny day in early March. The
twenty-minute boat trip out to the spot where the whales usually congregate
was uneventful, the half dozen of us aboard scanning the calm sea for
the Friendlies, as the locals fittingly call them. A few minutes passed
in silent reverie as we absorbed the gentle spring sunlight and then we
heard it, breaking the stillness just a few metres in front of the boat,
“Pppppfffffeeeeewwwwwwww!”
The
give-away spout of an exhaling whale formed a mini rainbow above the twelve-metre-long
female that was heading towards us. Then another, smaller blow immediately
next to her – she was the proud mother of a young baby, perhaps
no more than a week or two old. Already bigger than our small boat, and
growing at a phenomenal rate thanks to the high fat content of his mother's
milk, he was clearly very interested in this strange object filled with
even stranger creatures that had come to play. With his mother keeping
a constant close eye on him he approached the boat, rubbing his already
barnacled skin up against it, delighting in the sensation of his new plaything.
He rolled over and a big dark brown eye regarded us all trustingly. It
was an intensely moving moment.
That
infant whale showed all the qualities that might be expected in a newborn
human, a kitten or a puppy – curiosity, innocence, playfulness and
a burning spark of new life. But there seemed to be more besides, as if
in those in these young eyes there seemed to be not only trust but wisdom,
and above all, a sense of forgiveness. For myself, I was certain that
this enchanting baby – tiny at the side of his gargantuan mother
– was reaching out an olive branch to the very species that had
caused unspeakable harm and suffering to his own kind, and very likely
to his own extended family, including grandparents that may have been
slaughtered at the hands of the harpooners. As his mother swam over and
gently lifted the enormous bulk of her head above the water – itself
as long as our boat – she somehow conveyed exactly the same message,
as if communicating to us her trust, warm regard and forgiveness. In her
own lifetime she had probably witnessed the depth of some of the greatest
atrocities to which humanity has ever sunk, and yet here she was allowing
us to reach out and touch her treasured baby.
And
reach out I did. Despite swimming alongside many hundreds of dolphins
and whales on countless occasions, I had never before physically made
contact with a wild cetacean by unspoken invitation. As I placed my hand
on the baby's elongated head, the soft velvet of the newborn's skin pulsed
with warmth and vitality. It was smooth, sleek and quite unlike anything
I had encountered before. As the baby breathed out a million condensed
water droplets fell on me, but it felt more like an intimate baptism than
a drenching.
Over
the following hours and days I touched – and was touched by –
many of the beautiful Friendlies . In one bay alone there were more than
thirteen hundred whales; in every direction were tall spouts, huge bodies
rolling over and frolicking in the warm water, tail flukes signalling
deep dives and even whole upper bodies suspended vertically above the
surface spy - hopping – taking a good look around at the activity
in the bay, of which we on the boat were a privileged part. I was not
alone – hundreds of people come to make these trips out in the fishermen's
tiny boats when the whales visit these waters each year. Nobody returns
to shore unmoved by the experience, for it is an immense honour to be
welcomed into the world of cetacea in such an intimate way. For many,
the experience is overwhelming, and emotions surge forth upon touching
an ageless presence."
ITINERARY
Day
One (Friday 20 March) - Arrive in Loreto from your international
flight, and explore the small town, taking a leisurely stroll along the
promenade with beautiful views of the Sea of Cortez. Overnight in Loreto
hotel.
Day
Two (Saturday 21 March) - Boat trip to see the Blue Whales, local
dolphins and perhaps even a sighting of the world's second-largest whale
- the Fin Whales. Overnight in Loreto hotel.
Day
Three (Sunday 22 March) - A short hour-long ride to the beautiful
village of Mulege for lunch, with a chance to explore this charming area,
then on to San Ignacio lagoon through the beautiful mountain scenery of
the central Baja Peninsula. Arrive at the 'Whale Camp' late afternoon,
overnight in cabins.
Day
Four (Monday 23 March) - First trip out to see and interact with
the friendly Grey Whales, as well as the chance to explore some of the
local desert coastline. Overnight in cabins.
Day
Five (Tuesday 24 March) - Second boat trip to spend time with
the whales - sometimes as many as fifteen hundred in the bay at one time!
Afternoon transfer to San Ignacio for the short journey up to Guerrero
Negro. Overnight in hotel.
Day
Six (Wednesday 25 March) - Boat trip to see the Grey Whales in
this northern lagoon, a favourite hangout for the local dolphins too!
Afternoon opportunity to explore the village and an optional excursion
to see local prehistoric cave paintings. Overnight in hotel.
Day
Seven (Thursday 26 March) - Another boat trip out to see the
whales and dolphins, and a chance to say some personal farewells to these
friends in the sea before the transfer back down to Loreto. Overnight
in Loreto hotel.
Day
Eight (Friday 27 March) - Farewells after breakfast, and head
to the local airport for flights home.
The trip
will be led by Dr Jason Cressey. Jason first encountered the magic of
the Baja in 2007, putting together this unique itinerary for others to
encounter a variety of the treasures of both land and sea in this unique
region. Jason offers daily presentations about dolphins and whales, with
particular reference to the Grey and Blue whales and Common and Bottlenose
dolphins of the region, and provides background information on social
and mating behaviour, feeding, group dynamics, dolphins and whales in
history, mythology and modern culture, and an overview of the apparently
beneficial effects that interacting with wild cetacea can have on physical
and psychological well-being. This can be a very healing experience!
As well
as daily talks, there will be optional activity sessions throughout the
trip including yoga, relaxing visualisations, breathing exercises and
story-telling... all inspired by the dolphins and whales!
WHO
IS THE TRIP FOR?
You don't
even need to be able to swim for this trip - yet you'll be closer to whales
here than you could ever be anywhere else!
Full details
on preparing for the trip, and good ideas for things to bring, will be
supplied to all participants well in advance. Whether you're travelling
alone, in a couple or in a group – tours of this kind typically
attract a wide variety of people of different backgrounds and ages - the
only pre-requisite is a love of dolphins and whales, together with a desire
to get very close and personal with the monarchs of the sea!
The group
size will be small, to allow for a peaceful and individualised trip, and
will not exceed 10 guests maximum. The trip is open to residents of any
country. The tour officially begins and ends in Loreto, and full information
will be given on arranging your flight there from international gateways.
Because you make your own way there it really doesn't matter where you
begin the journey!
TRAVEL
ARRANGEMENTS
While the
tour does not include transportation to or from the Baja Peninsula, we
shall send detailed information to everyone joining the tour (on receipt
of the deposit) which outlines the travel options available to Loreto
from your part of the world. You can book your flights yourself or here.
WHAT
CAN YOU EXPECT TO GAIN FROM THE TRIP?
An appreciation
of cetacean evolution, physiology and social behaviour by encountering
Grey Whales, Blue Whales, Common and Bottlenose Dolphins in their own
natural environment
The chance
for the Grey Whales to approach the boats so closely that you can reach
out and touch them
A great
overview of the Baja Peninsula as we cross from the Sea of Cortez across
to the Pacific Ocean on a short journey that takes in mountains, beautiful
and historic settlements and deserts with salt plains and magnificent
cacti!
An insight
into local folklore and beliefs about dolphins and whales, as well as
traditional Mexican ways of life and tastes of the local fresh foods.
WHAT
DOES IT COST?
Prices for
the one-week 2009 trip is US$1975 (convert
currency) based on double occupancy (a single room supplement is payable
if you wish to have a double room to yourself). This includes:
- Seven
nights accommodation with breakfast each morning
- All
transportation in the Baja
- Five
trips out to see the local dolphins and whales: one trip to see the
Blue Whales and Common Dolphins, two trips in San Ignacio to see the
Grey Whales and two trips in Guerrero Negro to see the Grey Whales and
Bottlenose Dolphins.
- Whale
and dolphin audio-visual presentations and activities provided daily
by Dr Jason Cressey
- Yoga
Sessions with Brett Wearne (individual physio/energy work sessions also
available). The gentle yoga classes are for all levels and ages - no
experienced required.
- Lunches
and Dinners at the camp while in San Ignacio (Days 3-5).
For this
trip,we are using three different locations: In Loreto we stay in a small,
clean and comfortable hotel on the shore - with beautiful views of the
Sea of Cortez. In San Ignacio lagoon we stay at a dedicated Whale Camp
(there are no towns or villages on the shores of the lagoon), with comfortable
cabins and a central eating area. In Guerrero Negro, we stay in a motel
resort just a short distance from the lagoon to see the whales.
All boat
trips are offered by local fishermen in small boats - never with large
groups or monstrous engines!
The price
does not include:
- Transportation
to Loreto, Mexico (you will be supplied with full details about arranging
travel from your home country/area, how to find the best deals, etc.,
when you pay your deposit)
- Accommodation/food
before or after the tour (if you choose to stay in the region before
or after the trip)
- Lunch
or Dinner in locations other than the Whale Camp at San Ignacio
- Travel
Insurance, local airport/entry/departure taxes or gratuities
BOOKING
Places are
limited (the maximum size of the group is 12 guests), and are offered
on a first-come, first-served basis. A non-refundable deposit of US$600
(convert currency)
per person will secure your place immediately.
Upon receipt
of your deposit, you will be sent an acknowledgment by Dr. Cressey. A
further $1275 is due by February 1st 2009. (In the case of last minute
bookings made after February 1 - space permitting - the full amount is
payable immediately in a single installment.)
He shall
also send a list of recommended personal items to pack, a detailed itinerary,
a medical/release form and detailed information and suggestions about
booking your flights. Payments can be made by personal cheque, money order,
or bank transfer.
Please note
that, in the event that you need to cancel your place(s), this must be
done in writing. Refunds of any payments made after the deposit will only
be given if your place(s) on the tour can be filled.
How
to Book
Contact 'Wild and Free' by
Email and the course leader will contact you.
BOOK
FLIGHTS HERE |
